A couple of weeks ago I looked out the window and, though it was a hot day, I noticed that the light had the look of fall. It happens so suddenly—that subtle change in the quality and angle of the light, but it’s unmistakable.
So then I started to think about warming stews and soups, which led me to thinking about what’s in the market, which led me to chiles, then tomatillos, and finally, pork. It was clearly time for Chile Verde. It’s one of my favorite dishes on the planet and one we used to make all the time at The Jimtown Store. In fact, I still use the recipe from The Jimtown Store Cookbook.
It’s rich and porky, tender and savory, warming and deeply flavorful and just spicy enough to heat your belly. It’s true comfort food. I like to serve it with Lupe’s Red Rice (from the Jimtown book) and some simply cooked beans and homemade tortillas. There are several steps involved in the making but none are hard and the actual cooking is effortless. It can be done in a low oven, on the stove in a heavy pot, or in the crockpot. Plus the leftovers get better every day and are so easily reheated for a quick lunch.
Speaking of Jimtown—I’ll be there this Sunday, the 19, from 2-4 with bites from DIY Delicious and I’ll be signing books and answering questions. Would love to see you there.
Here’s the method, if not the actual recipe:
Start by charring about a dozen poblano peppers right on the top of your gas stove. (if your stove is electric you may do it in a hot oven but they won’t get quite as charred)
Place them in a bowl and cover with a towel to let them steam
Meanwhile, bring water to a boil about a pound of husked tomatillos for 15 minutes until they turn a dull green. Cool.
Cut up about 3 pounds of boneless pork shoulder (this one from my new friendly neighborhood butcher shop run by Marin Sun Farms) into stew-like pieces, removing some, but not all of the fat.
Puree the tomatillos in a food processor with salt, pepper, garlic, half an onion, a handful of cilantro, and 2 or 3 Serrano chiles, depending on heat desired
Peel the poblanos, seed, destem and dice.
In a heavy pot, sauté one diced onion and two or three cloves of garlic in olive oil or lard. Add the pork, the pureed tomatillos, the diced poblanos, salt, pepper, about 3 cups of chicken or pork broth, and some freshly toasted and ground cumin. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to a gentle simmer and cook until tender 1-1/2 hours on the stove, 2-2 ½ hours in the oven, or 6-8 hours in a crockpot. (in which case you just sauté the onions and garlic and then dump them, along with everything else into the crock-pot)
DIY Delicious at Jimtown—ajvar, crackers, cheese, yogurt cake, sauerkraut canapés and more!
The inaugural DIY Delicious book event was held recently at Jimtown Store in Healdsburg, CA. Since working on the recipes for the Jimtown Store cookbook was my first foray into cookbookery, it only seems fitting. Plus it’s a warm, welcoming space that feels like home and Carrie Brown and her staff know how to make a party!
But first the food: My dear friend Ellen helped me make fresh cheese, crackers, ajvar dip, and yogurt cakes the day before—all from the book.
Upon our arrival, all we had to do was crisp the potatoes, assemble the canapés (which included homemade sauerkraut and mustard from the book) and arrange the other items on platters. Carrie and her staff provided the flowers, the space and all the gorgeous herb bundles.
It was a fabulous party. Both my sisters showed up, many friends, ex-husband, and even some folks from as far away as Palo Alto.
Ajvar Dip (from DIY Delicious page 74)
This is a wonderful dip to make this time of year when the eggplants and peppers fill the markets. If you take the time to really char the eggplants (don’t worry, the stove will clean up just fine) you will be rewarded with a lovely smokiness that reminds me of a very good baba ghanoush, only better. Look for this recipe on the Chronicle Books Blog later this week.
Time Required: 30 minutes active; 30 minutes passive
Makes about 2 cups
1 globe eggplant, about 1 pound
2 red bell peppers
2 garlic cloves, peeled
Salt
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon ground Aleppo pepper or paprika
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground pepper
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
Wash the eggplant and poke it with the tines of a fork in several places. If you have a gas burner, lay it right on top of the grate, turn the burner to high, and roast until blackened all over, turning often with tongs, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a parchment lined baking sheet.
Roast the peppers the same way and transfer them to the sheet as well.
Put the charred peppers and eggplant in the oven and roast until completely soft, about for 10 minutes for the peppers and 20-30 minutes for the eggplant. Remove the peppers to a bowl, and cover with a plate so they can steam. Leave the eggplant in the oven until it is very soft all the way to the center. Test it with a fork to be sure.
Once the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them, and remove the seeds and stems. Transfer to a food processor. In a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic with a pinch of salt until you have a smooth paste. Add to the food processor with the peppers and pulse until chunky smooth.
When the eggplant is cool enough to handle, scrape the flesh from the skin and remove as many of the seeds as it is easy to do, without worrying too much about removing all of them. Transfer the eggplant to the processor with the peppers and garlic. Add the lemon juice, Aleppo pepper and pulse a few times. Add the olive oil slowly while pulsing. Add salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Serve immediately or refrigerate, well covered, for up to 10 days.